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General Company Procedure and Ordering Questions
1. Do you sell any used or refurbished equipment?
2. Do you have any dealers?
3. Where can I find information about shipping and returns/repairs?
Flash Unit Operation Questions
1. What does it mean if the modeling lamp in my unit flickers randomly, even when I'm not firing the light?
2. What will trip the slave cell?
3. When using my light with a sync cord, it only fires about half the time when triggered with the camera. When I fire the light with the test button, it flashes every time.Why is this?
4. I'm having problems fitting the sync cord into the PC connection on my camera
and/or into the sync jack on my flash unit. Did I get the wrong cord?
5. My flash unit does not fire when I press the test button. All I hear is a 'clicking' sound. The ready light comes on, and the model lamp works, but the unit will not flash. What does this mean?
6. My unit flashes when the TEST button is pushed, but it won't fire at all with the sync connected to my camera. What could cause this?
7. Do you recommend any Radio Slaves, Photo Cells, or Infra-Red Triggers?
Vagabond™ Questions
1. Can I take my Vagabond I (retired) or Vagabond II Portable Power System
when I travel by air?
2. How many units can be plugged into the Vagabond II Portable Power System?
Remote Control Questions
1. Can I use the wireless remote control with the X-Series, UltraZAP Series, White
Lightning™ 5,000/10,000 Series, and Ultras?
2. My RadioRemote One does not always fire all the flash units all the time. How can I correct this?
3. The bracketing function (all up or all down) on my RadioRemote One will not work. What can I do?
4. (On the RadioRemote One) Another photographer in the area is setting off my lights. How do I fix this?
5. One receiver is not responding, though the others do. How do I fix this?
6. None of the receivers are working. What should I do?
7. Why does the transmitter fire the lights, but not my camera?
8. What is the x-sync speed of the Cybersync?
9. Will Cybersync fire Sekonic Meters with the Pocket Wizard?
Questions About Older/Retired Models of White Lightning™ Flash Units
1. What are the big differences in the UltraZAP and X-Series flash units, the WL10,000 flash units, and the Ultra series?
2. How can I get operating instructions and/or assistance on an older White Lightning™ Flash Unit?
3. I have one or more of the following problems with my Ultra:(1)The light suddenly seems to recycle twice as quickly;(2)I seem to have about half the power I used to; and/or (3)they 'pop' when the light flashes has a different sound. What's wrong?
4. I've noticed that you sell a cooling fan as a separate accessory for the Ultra. Should I get one?
General Company Procedure and Ordering Questions
Q: Do you sell any used or refurbished equipment?
A: No. We only sell new, unused equipment, so that we can ensure that we are offering you the highest quality product that will serve your craft for years to come. We keep any used equipment to offer as "loaner" equipment, to be used by our customers while they're having a unit repaired or upgraded.
Q: Do you have any dealers?
A: No. All White Lightning™ equipment is sold Factory Direct only. All orders must be placed by phone or online, directly through our company. We prefer Factory Direct sales, as this allows us to maintain a direct line of communication with our customers, and save them money by cutting out the middlemen. We directly sell and ship our products to customers in the United States (and U.S territories), to US Military Personnel and to customers in Canada.
Q:Where can I find information about shipping and returns/repairs?
A: You can find out more about ordering and shipping on our ordering page.
For information about repairs, please see our contact page.
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Flash Unit Operation Questions
Q: What does it mean if the modeling lamp in my unit flickers randomly, even when I'm not firing the light?
A: Several things can cause flickering of the modeling lamp. As the modeling lamp circuitry is sensitive to ac line noise, noise caused by large air conditioning units, nearby fluorescent lighting, and electronic dimmer circuits may produce flickering. The problem can also occur when circuits are overloaded (perhaps with a large number of lights connected to a single circuit). Additionally, flickering can occur when different cables and cords are run too closely together, or when excessive extension cords are used.
To prevent flickering, be careful not to overload your power circuits. When using a remote control, do not route the remote cable in close proximity to power cords. If you use an extension cord that is 25 feet or longer, use a 16-3 or larger gauge wire (3 #16 AWG wires) extension cord. Smaller numbers indicate a larger wire (go figure), so a 14-3 extension cord (3 #14 AWG wires) is larger than a 16-3 cord.
Q: What will trip the slave cell?
A: Our built-in slave tripper is sensitive to both visible and infrared flashes of light. Any light flash that it “sees” can trigger it, including the flash from another unit in your setup or a conventional on-camera flash. An infrared remote transmitter will trip the slave cell as well. Although this gives you more options for triggering the lights in your setup, the presence of extraneous triggers must be considered when you are not the only photographer in the area. Other photographers' flash units, on-camera flashes, or infrared remote controls can inadvertently trip your lights.
When you are the only photographer in a specific shooting environment, the built-in slave tripper on each unit eliminates excess wiring in your setup. You can use multiple flash units, and hard-wire just one unit to your camera. Your camera’s sync circuit will fire the hard-wired flash, and the built-in slave cell on each of your other units will fire the remaining units simultaneously.
If you are shooting in an environment where other photographers are using flash units, you will need to disengage the built-in slave tripper in your flash units. The slave tripper is disengaged whenever a sync cord or dummy plug is inserted into the sync jack. Disengaging the built-in slave tripper will prevent your flash units from being tripped by other flashes. To fire multiple units without using the slaves, you can use our SS1 Sync Hardwire Kit, or use either our LG4X Wired Remote, or RadioRemote One Wireless Remote
Q: When using my light with a sync cord, it only fires about half the time when triggered with the camera. When I fire the light with the test button, it flashes every time. Why is this?
A: An improperly wired power outlet (where the ac Line and Neutral wires are reversed) could be the culprit. This is particularly common in older buildings. To find out if the power outlet is the source of the problem, you can use a circuit tester. This is a small three-pronged device that plugs into the ac outlet and has lights that indicate if there are any wiring problems. You can pick one up at a home improvement store or electrical supply store for a few dollars. If you frequently shoot on location, it’s a good thing to have along in the equipment bag.
This problem can also occur as the result of a problematic cord or connector. Connectors can wear over time, causing a loose or corroded connection between the camera X-sync PC female and the PC male connectors. If you suspect that the problem is in the cord or the connector, please contact our Technical Support Team for assistance. The Technical Support Team can be reached by calling our Toll Free Number, 1-800-443-5542, available to help you Monday through Friday, from 9:00am until 5:00pm, CST.
Q: I'm having problems fitting the sync cord into the PC connection on my camera and/or into the sync jack on my flash unit. Did I get the wrong cord?
A: The standard sync cord supplied with your White Lightning™ flash unit is a 15-foot cord, with a 1/4-inch stereo plug on one end, and a PC connector on the other end. To ensure a proper connection, you must push both the PC connector and stereo plug in fully, until they cannot be pushed in any further. Simply pushing the connector in one more “click” for a positive, tight connection solves many problems of this nature. However, given manufacturing tolerances, it is only natural to get an occasional "minus" sync cord mating up with a "plus" camera pc connector, and vice versa. A PC connector set requires a tight fit to prevent misfires, and there are slight size differences occasionally noted between a camera manufacturer’s PC outlet, and cord manufacturer’s PC cord. While this is rare, if you feel that your sync cord simply won’t match, please contact us and we will send you a new sync cord.
Q: My flash unit does not fire when I press the test button. All I hear is a 'clicking' sound. The ready light comes on, and the model lamp works, but the unit will not flash. What does this mean?
A: If the ready light comes on, and you hear a faint click when you push the test button but see no flash, your flashtube may be exhausted. A new flashtube will most often fix the problem. By the nature of their design, all flashtubes become exhausted after extended use. Our flashtubes offer a typical life expectancy around 250,000 flashes. You can purchase replacement tubes from us online or by phone, and replace the tube yourself simply and inexpensively. Keep in mind that the Ultra Series units use two flash tubes, and we recommend that you replace both at the same time. If you are uncertain as to which size and style of flashtube you need, you can visit our flashtubes section of this website, or call us on our Toll Free Customer Service Line (1-800-443-5542), and we will help you determine the correct replacement tube.
Q: My unit flashes when the TEST button is pushed, but it won't fire at all with the sync connected to my camera. What could cause this?
A: First, you should check your sync cord by plugging it into your light and shorting the PC male connector center pin to the circular sleeve that surrounds it. You can use a paper clip, a ballpoint pen tip, or metal nail file to do this (and don't worry, no dangerous voltage is present on this connection). This should cause the light to fire. If the flash unit fires, but won't fire from the camera, read on. Some of the newer electronic cameras are sensitive to sync polarity. The sync cord that comes with the lights is one piece, center positive. If your camera has negative polarity, you may want to order our two-piece sync cord. One piece in this set is a short white cord that has the small PC connector that goes in the camera on one end and a two-pronged “household ac” type connector on the other end. This pronged end plugs into the socket on the long black part of the sync cord. If you look at the prongs and the socket they plug into, you'll notice that they are two different widths. Normally, they should be plugged together so that these widths match. When you connect them the other way, you are reversing the polarity. If your camera is not tripping the lights, try reversing this connection. Some cameras we know are sensitive to this are: Canon EOS series; Olympus; Bronica; Minolta Si 6000, 7000, 9000, and the Fuji 6x7.
Q: Do you recommend any Photo Cells, or Infra-Red Triggers?
A: We have tested and recommend the following products for safe use with Paul C. Buff, Inc. flash units:
Infra-Red Triggers
Wein SSR, SSR-Jr., Pro Sync, Pro Sync 2, and the Pro Sync 4.
Wein Products Inc. (Distributed by The Saunders Group/Tiffen Company)
21 Jet View Dr. Rochester, NY 14624-4996
Tel: 716-328-7800 Fax: 716-328-5078
Web Site: www.saundersphoto.com/html/wein.htm
E-mail: techsupport@tiffen.com
Photo Cell Slaves
Wein Peanut (PN), Ultra-Performance Peanut (PN-XL), Micro (L8), Micro Ultra (XL8) and the Ultra Slaves (SSL/XL).
Wein Products Inc. (Distributed by The Saunders Group/Tiffen Company)
21 Jet View Dr. Rochester, NY 14624-4996
Tel: 716-328-7800 Fax: 716-328-5078
Web Site: www.saundersphoto.com/html/wein.htm
E-mail: techsupport@tiffen.com
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Vagabond™ Questions
Q: Can I take my Vagabond I (retired) or Vagabond II Portable Power System when I travel by air?
A: Yes. The batteries used in both systems (the B15A in the V150 / V300
and the B20A in the VII) are spill-proof batteries, having all of the necessary approvals to be shipped by UPS and US Mail and to be transported by an airline as checked-in baggage (Unregulated per DOT 49 CFR 173, 159 (d), and IATA/ICAO Special Provision A67). When checked in for transport, it must be labeled: “Non-Spillable Battery” for all modes of public transportation. The label must be visible, so you may wish to tag the bag or box the system for air travel. Please understand that some airlines may simply refuse to transport any device that contains a lead acid battery, even one conforming to the current regulations. It is best to check with the airline first for any special shipping or packaging requirements.
Q: How many units can be plugged into the Vagabond II Portable Power System?
A: Vagabond II can run up to six of our monolights AlienBees; White Lightning Ultra, Ultra Zap and X-series. It can also run one Z2500 and two Z1250s.
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Remote Control Questions
Q: Can I use the wireless remote control with the X-Series, UltraZAP Series, White Lightning™ 5,000/10,000 Series, and Ultras?
A: Yes. Our RadioRemote One will provide incremental control of flashpower and model light intensity for all X-Series, UltraZAPs, and Ultra Units. The Radio Remote One will give you sync control of White Lightning™ 5,000 and 10,000 flash units. Our flash units also work with Wein, Quantum, and Flash Wizard from LPA Design to name but a few.
Q: My RadioRemote One does not always fire all the flash units all the time. How can I correct this?
A: Be sure that the antenna of each unit is as vertical as possible, and not right against any metal object. Remember Radio waves will pass through wood or glass but not metal. Be sure any channel not in use is turned off. Keep the transmitter antenna as far away from your body as possible, and make sure there is a direct line of sight path from the transmitter antenna and the receiver antennas.
Q: The bracketing function (all up or all down) on my RadioRemote One will not work. What can I do?
A: Most likely, one or more of the channels is at Full Power or at Minimum Power. To correct this problem, ensure that all channels not in use are turned off.
Q: (On the RadioRemote One) Another photographer in the area is setting off my lights. How do I fix this?
A: Are your slaves disabled? Be sure that your slave trippers are disabled by plugging the dummy plug in fully. Is another photographer also using a RadioRemote One, and in the same bank that you are? If so, simply change what bank you are working in.
Q: (On the RadioRemote One) One receiver is not responding, though the others do. How do I fix this?
A: Is the non-responsive receiver turned on? Are the batteries inside still good? First check that all connections are tight, and that your batteries are good. Make sure that the individual receiver is turned on, and set to the proper channel and bank. Remember, the screwdriver slots in the channel and bank select rotary switches are NOT the dial pointers. The dial pointers are small black triangles printed on the shaft ends, and they are located 90 degrees from the screwdriver slots. Check that the corresponding channel on the transmitter is on, and all channels not in use are turned off.
Q: (On the RadioRemote One) None of the receivers are working. What should I do?
A: First, determine that the transmitter is displaying normal indications: When the BANK button is depressed, the BANK window should appear on the LCD, displaying the bank assignment number, and the LCD backlights should be illuminated when the button is released. If this does not happen, replace the batteries, and repeat the check. If the transmitter displays appear to be normal, check each of the channels you intend to use, and be sure they are turned ON. Check that the flash power bar graph on each active channel has at least one indicator bar darkened, and the bar graph follows any change in flash power as directed by the front panel FLASHPOWER buttons. The bar graph should respond to the FIRE button by scrolling all its segments down, and then back up twice. Turn all the unused channels OFF.
Are the receivers turned on? Are the batteries inside still good? Make sure that the individual receivers are turned on, and set to the proper channels and to the proper bank. Remember, the screwdriver slots in the channel-select and bank-select rotary switches are NOT the dial pointers. The dial pointers are small black triangles printed on the shaft ends, and they are located 90 degrees from the screwdriver slots.
Q: (On the RadioRemote One) Why does the transmitter fire the lights, but not my camera?
A: If the camera sync cord has reversible connections, try reversing them. If you are using a hot shoe adaptor, make sure that the cord comes out of the back end of the camera, not the front, and check that the hot shoe is well locked in place. Try unplugging the sync momentarily, and short the sync cord contacts together with a metal object, which should fire the system. If it does, there are problems with your camera or your hot shoe (if using an adaptor). If shorting the sync contacts together does not fire the system, the problem is in the sync cord or the transmitter. Contact our Service department to assess if repairs or replacement is necessary.
Q: What is the x-sync speed of the Cybersync™?
A: The x-sync speed is determined by the camera and radio tripper. The delay time of Cybersync™ is 1/4000 second. It can sync up to 1/2500 second on cameras and flash units. Most modern DSLR cameras max around 1/250 second, either with a sync cord or with CyberSync.
Q: Will CyberSync™ fire Sekonic Meters with the Pocket Wizard?
A: Cybersync™ will not fire Sekonic Meters with the Pocket Wizard Module. These can only be fired to or from a Pocket Wizard as the frequencies and coding are proprietary to Pocket Wizard.
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Questions About Older/Retired Models of White Lightning™ Flash Units
Q: What are the big differences in the UltraZAP and X-Series flash units, the WL10,000 flash units, and the Ultra series?
A: As White Lightning™ was started in 1983, we’ve made many changes to our flash units in the realms of both design and function. The current White Lightning™ X-Series Flash units are the highly evolved and finest Paul C. Buff flash units to date, boasting a stepless adjustable power range, internal fan cooling, WYSIWYG (What-You-See-Is-What-You-Get) modeling accuracy, fast flash duration, fast recycle times, increased durability, audible warning alarms, and the widest range of accessory compatibility.
Our recently retired UltraZAP line has the same internal power dump feature that the X-Series has (no more popping to lower output power), the same quick and easy reflector release (a wonderful feature), and of course the latest in high tech electronics and remote control capabilities. The UltraZAPs essentially have all of the features of the X-Series units minus an internal fan, warning alarms and dual power mode. Both the X-Series and UltraZAP units have low sync voltages, safe for use with digital cameras, and are powerful, indestructible units.
The White Lightning™ 5,000 and 10,000 were the original offering from the company and the Ultra came along several years later with more power and features. Now the X-Series and UltraZAP flash units take center stage as the leaders in quality flash equipment. All the systems work well together with their proportional modeling systems. White Lightning™ 5,000s and 10,000s have only three power settings (Full, 2/3, and 1/3) while the X-Series, UltraZAPs and Ultras are continuously adjustable throughout their range. The X-Series, UltraZAP and Ultras have interchangeable reflectors while the White Lightning 5,000 and 10,000 units have a fixed, 7" reflector. Also the X-Series, UltraZAP and Ultras have remote control capability using the LG4X, the RadioRemote One, or the CompuScene, while the WL 5,000/10,000 units can only be fired remotely by the RadioRemote One.
Q: How can I get operating instructions and/or assistance on an older White Lightning™ Flash Unit?
A: Please call our Customer Service Line (1-800-443-5542) to get help, discuss your needs, or have any questions answered about any of our White Lightning™ Flash Units. You can also find information, specs, and online versions of our older manuals here.
Q: I have one or more of the following problems with my Ultra:
1) The light suddenly seems to recycle twice as quickly;
2) I seem to have about half the power I used to;
3) The 'pop' when the light flashes has a different sound. What's
wrong?
(Please note that this question and answer are only relevant to the discontinued Ultra Series Flash Units, not current White Lightning™ lines)
A: All Ultra Series Flash Units have two separate flashtubes. Any of these problems are most likely the result of only one tube firing. As flashtubes exhaust with age and use, when using the set of two tubes in the Ultras, one may exhaust slightly earlier than the other. One easy way to check this is to point the unit (with standard reflector attached) at a pane of glass or a window and fire it at the lowest power setting. You should see a circular pattern of flash (best viewed with the modeling lamp removed). If you only see a half circle, one of the tubes is not firing. This may mean the tube is exhausted. If you feel that it is too soon for one to exhaust, if they’ve been recently replaced, the one tube may be defective. In this case, call us to have your tube replaced immediately. If it is not the tube, there may be a problem with the internal circuitry of your unit. Turn the unit off, unplug it, and allow it to sit for at least 15 minutes. Remove the reflector and check the suspect tube for the following: If the tube appears to be painted with a silvery substance, check that the paint is not peeling off. If the tube is wrapped with very thin wire, check the wire for loose ends that may be touching part of the case. Finally, check the three holes where the tube plugs into the head and make sure the legs enter straight through the center of the holes. If all these indications are ok, the problem is not in the tube, and the unit probably needs to come in for repair.
Q: I've noticed that you sell a cooling fan as a separate accessory for the Ultra. Should I get one?
A: You may need the UFAN if you are using the Ultra in particularly stressful situations: near the ceiling with the model lights on full all day, with warm temperatures in the studio, or if the light is enclosed in a soft box or other similar apparatus. Basically, the light should not get so warm that its uncomfortable to hold your hand on the case just behind the head area where the reflector mounts.
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